A Court of Salt and Sand

Day 11 brought another German lesson, I’m not sure why Hilde hasn’t strangled us yet, I wish the American school system had started us on learning a language earlier in life. History of Medicine brought a series of surprises, Dr. Wasser talked of the Nazi regime and their desire to wipe the world of those not worthy to live. Hitler never issued a formal order to start the mass euthanasia, but others acted on what they believed what was his desires. He, of course, never condemned what they were doing because he wished for a pure world. The killings actually started with those labeled a tax upon society, the disabled and mentally ill, not the Jews that came later. He and his cohorts hide the murders from the general population because the “unworthy” were of the Aryan race, and to kill them publicly would have caused riots. The final surprise was that the U.S. government was keeping a close eye on Hilter’s health from afar, and were unfortunately not able to confirm any diagnosis. However, there is enough evidence to stipulate that Hilter had poor health and suffered from a series of illnesses and possibly having the earlier symptoms of Parkinson’s. His yearning for a pure world was born of hypocrisy for his own wellbeing was similarly taxing as those were killed. 

I did not expect the morning of Day 12 to start by Wasser blasting “Break a Sweat” by Becky G and jamming out to it. We learned the history of the sauna and how in Finland, some children were even born in one, although this practice has become outdated. Those who were sick when to saunas to sweat out any demons in their system so that the shaman can heal their spirit. When we were released for the day, I hoped on a train to Paris and prayed that their subway system wouldn’t hate me this time. Unfortunately, it lashed out with a vengeance and poor Martha and I nearly got stuck inside a station at midnight. A bit of kindness from a Parisian stranger had us at our AirBnb soon after. 

After a quick stop for a chocolate croissant, Day 13 had me at the gates of Versailles, a place that spared no expense 
when decorating. Only a small bit of the palace was open as a museum, and while the inside was gorgeous, the gardens took my breath away. Literally. The gardens go on forever. I spent 4 hours in them and couldn’t find the back of them. I wandered from patch of sunlight to patch of sunlight enjoying my book and the silence, occasionally asking some poor stranger to take my picture. By day, I was wishing I had been born 3 centuries ago so that I could revel in the opulence of the time, but when I returned at sunset, I was right where I needed to be. Not many can say that they have been to a rave, even less can say that they went to a rave at **********ing Versailles. I wove my way to the front and danced for hours marveling that I was using the palace the way that King Louis XIV intended.

Day 14 allowed me to sleep in but again, the Paris underground was determined to make my day as hard as possible. At least my trains ran on time and there was finally no need to run to make my connection. Reaching my host house in Bonn turned my legs to jelly and I was grateful to collapse into bed. 

The day has come that we take our first, multiple day excursion, next stop, Norderney. A hop, a skip and a ferry later, we collected our bikes and explored the beach near our hostel. Never before have I breathed cleaner air nor experienced no allergies. Day 15 ended with tai chi on a chilly beach and a quick jaunt in the North Sea.

If you told me a year ago that I would sit in hot, naked, contemplative silence with a bunch of strangers, I probably would had believed you because nothing is too weird for me to not try. Day 16 was cold and rainy, but inside the Badehaus was warm and welcoming. After a tour from the resident doctor, an hour long lecture gave us the history of Norderney and why we pay to breath the air there. The air coming off the North Sea is so clean, that people were prescribed to come here to heal. Multiple studies showed that 3 weeks on Norderney would decrease stress, burnout and increase sleep amount and quality. The lecture was followed by 3 hours in the bath house, 30 minutes of it consumed by a shlick. We covered ourselves in silt and salt, and stood in a steam shower. Let me tell you, being reborn (the top layer of skin sloughing off) is pretty warm and slightly uncomfortable. I explored the surrounding saunas and per the Haus rules, no bathing suits allowed, covering yourself with a towel is optional. I jumped from sauna to sauna, sometimes uncovering, mostly wondering how in the world I got here. We were free to explore the island and I found myself out in the middle of it, talking to myself and admiring the beauty of the dunes. The day ended picture perfect with a BBQ that rivaled the ones in Texas and a walk along the beach at sunset. Thank you Kristen for the photoshoot <3

Day 17 started with a tour of the city and a visit to the Badehaus museum. The woman lecturing to us told us how Norderney just turned 222 years old and guided us through the history of visitors, a great amount of royalty needed a break from court life and came to be refreshed. And while the day started out sunny, by the time we had our mud flat hike at 2pm, the skies unleashed its fury and the next 2 hours were spent wet, cold and full of interesting facts about the critters that live and feed off the salt marshes. Lots of worms that make the silt I slathered on myself and cockles that the oyster feeders consume. My power walking once we were done reached a speed so fast, some might call it super human. As fast as my legs could bike, I was at the Badehaus and floating the the deliciously warm Dead Sea bath. Norderney truly is a restorative place. After 4 hours of bliss (and more sauna sweating), I wandered to the beach for a drink and  another stunning sunset. Bless the waitress that pointed out they had blankets to borrow. I managed to find a restaurant still open and unknowingly ordered a patty of raw fish, it was still delectable. My sleep brought me no dreams.

I wish I had gotten a German doctor to prescribe me 3 weeks on the island, I was not ready to leave. Dr. Wasser led us in a bike tour around the island, making the most of the sunshine and resting waterfowl. Such a small island holds such a diverse amount of species, it would take me years to recognize even a quarter of them. The last 2 hours left me walking around the quaint town, eating and drinking a glass of wine on the beach. Who knows when I’ll see it again. 

This weekend I trade one beach for another. It’s time to test out my Spanish in Palma, Spain.